Your ULTIMATE Local’s Guide to Solo Travel in Lebanon | 2024
Lebanon, a solo traveler’s paradise and a haven of beauty, history, and turbulence. this comprehensive guide will make your trip a breeze – and keep you coming back for more.
Having spent the best part of the last 12 years traveling around Lebanon and getting to know its isms, I want to share my wealth of knowledge with you!
I’ll give you a few essential tips to make the most of your solo travel in Lebanon.
There isn’t a lot of updated information online about Lebanon, and the country can get pretty confusing at the best of times. That’s why I’m here, to make your life easier!
I’ll be covering all the basics + more, including how to plan your budget in the local currency, getting around, where to stay, and some hacks to make your journey around Lebanon a total breeze.
I’ll also give you a few specific tips for female solo travelers – the more you know!
1. The basics: cash & pre-planning
Let’s be honest, preparing to travel around a new country can be daunting – but Lebanon is on a new level!
The first time I went to Lebanon, I was lucky enough to have the trip pretty much planned out for me. But over subsequent years, I had to learn all the best ways to plan ahead to make the trip a total breeze.
So, let’s get back to basics!
Currency in Lebanon
When you Google the currency in Lebanon, you’ll probably see that there are 2 main currencies: the all-famous American dollar and the Lebanese Lira.
There are a few things to bear in mind about the money situation in Lebanon. First of all, cash is KING! Your bank card will get a little dusty while you’re there, so come prepared with a purse!
And don’t trust the banks – which basically means don’t rely on ATMs to have your back. The exchange rate is absurd and you’ll just get ripped off.
You’ll need to exchange all your cash before you go (+extra) into USD. You might not use USD all the time while you’re there, but I can pretty much guarantee you won’t be able to get Lira (LL) from your home country, at least not at a good rate.
Once you’ve arrived, look up the daily exchange rate here and go to one of the licensed exchangers in Beirut. Due to the financial situation, the rates change every day, so be informed before you go!
You can purchase pretty much anything in USD (from supermarkets, shops, restaurants etc) but a lot of the time LL is advised – especially if you’re using public transport – and flashing your dollar bills in public is not the greatest idea 💰
If you need more cash while you’re there, use Western Union to send yourself USD and just collect it from one of the WUs in Beirut (map). Easy!
PRO TIP: There’s a huge expat community in Beirut, and if you’re getting ripped off by money exchangers, there’s always someone in the Facebook group willing to exchange. I recommend playing it safe and exercising caution here, but I’ve done it many times with other female expats and you can have a glass of wine together while you’re at it!
Planning your arrival
Beirut only has one airport, the Rafic-Hariri Airport. I know many people who prefer to just get to a new country and wing it. And I get it – it’s more exciting, right?
Wrong!
Don’t do this in Beirut. Once you get out of arrivals, you’ll be hounded by (sometimes unlicensed) taxi drivers desperate to take you places. Don’t be one of those people without a plan.
I recommend White Taxi. They’re super reliable, have excellent prices, and the drivers generally speak at least a bit of English. Book in advance and you’ll find them standing at arrivals waving a placard with your name on it.
Getting through customs should be pretty easy, I’ve personally never had problems. Just make sure you’ve got the following details on you so you can get through easy-breezy:
- How long you’re staying
- Address of your hotel (addresses in Beirut aren’t usually exact but have at least the name of the hotel and the area)
- A contact number for your stay (put the hotel contact number if you don’t know anyone)
NOTE: It shouldn’t be more than US$25 to get you into central Beirut by cab.
What to take
I’m not going to give you an exhaustive list of everything you’ll need to take with you – I hope you already know that you’ll need your passport and extra socks for the road – but here are the essentials you might not think of:
- A headscarf – if you’re a female and you’re planning on venturing outside of the main tourist spots or you want to visit religious sites, this is essential.
- Modest clothing – don’t wear tiny hotpants, even in Beirut. Women in many areas of Lebanon dress like westerners a lot of the time, but some areas are more conservative. Just be mindful!
- A camera – you don’t realize how beautiful this country is, so if you’ve got a good camera, bring it!
- A cross-body shoulder bag – theft isn’t as common in Lebanon as it is in London or Paris, but it’s getting slightly more frequent now because of the situation. Just play it safe!
- Tampons etc – whatever sanitary products you prefer, take them with you. Don’t rely on the pharmacies having tampons or fancy moon cups, they usually don’t (especially in rural areas).
- A coin purse + wallet – you’ll be dealing with cash all the time, so have a wallet and coin purse you can just whip out whenever the need arises.
- Sunscreen – sunscreen can be suuuper expensive in Lebanon! Plus, you might not find the brands you like. Buy it before you go and make sure you have enough for your trip.
- Thin leggings – if you’re hanging out in more conservative areas, leggings can be a lifesaver, especially if they’re thin enough for the summer. It means you can wear those summer dresses you love so much without drawing too much attention.
- Activewear – if you’re a hiker, you’ll need hiking gear (just the basics) because there are a TON of stunning hikes all over the country.
- Birkenstocks or similar – walking around Beirut can mean getting garbage in your shoes! I’m joking (kind of), but the streets aren’t super clean, so bring sturdy sandals with thick soles if walking is your jam!
- NORMAL Swimwear – please don’t bring your bikini thong to Lebanon, it’s just not going to go down well 😂bring normal swimwear that isn’t going to look like you’re wearing a toothpick between your buttcheeks.
- Padlocks – ideal if you’re doing the solo grind properly and staying in hostels. It’s always good to stay on the safe side, especially if you’re bringing laptops/fancy cameras and you’ve got lots of cash to exchange.
PRO TIP: Download maps.me on your phone and make sure the map of Lebanon is downloaded before you go. You can easily get a sim card once you’re there, but if you’re in a remote area with no signal it’s useful to have a downloaded map.
Travel itinerary
I’ll go into a whole travel itinerary for Lebanon in another post, but for now, let’s just stick to the basics!
I recommend treating Beirut like your parents’ house – use it as your base, do your laundry there, and get out and travel the rest of Lebanon!
Beirut is an excellent base for many reasons. It’s pretty central with easy links to other cities along the coastline, and there’s a ton of stuff to do there for solo travelers.
It’s also a great place to meet new people, so you can meet other solos there and join up with groups going to places all over the country!
That being said, don’t spend all your time in Beirut. It’s a bit like Paris in the sense that it doesn’t necessarily reflect Lebanon’s culture in the way that more remote communities do.
Beirut is gorgeous, infuriating, chaotic, friendly, and totally neurotic. It’s like nowhere else on the planet, and you’ll come to love the chaos, but it can be exhausting after a while! Have your crazy weeks there and do as the locals do on the weekends – get out and discover the rest of the country.
HACK: I’ve found that trying to stick to an itinerary in Lebanon is nigh-on impossible. I recommend making a list of the places you want to explore, and then go with the flow once you get there. You never know who you’ll meet, and it’s the best way to travel. Embrace the anarchy!
2. Where to stay in Lebanon
Now that we’ve established you should start off in Beirut, I’ll give you a few options here to get you going.
In terms of the best places to stay in Beirut, I recommend Geitawi, Achrafieh, Hamra, or Gemmayzeh. Downtown is also fine!
These are the best of the best, so book in advance for the best rates! Prices here are for 1 person, 1 night.
Luxury (US$100 and up)
- Arthaus Beirut – Arthaus (in Gemmayzeh) is pretty insane. It’s stunning, quiet, luxurious, and has every amenity you’ll ever need. It’s pricey, but totally worth it!
- O Monot Boutique Hotel – O Monot has been iconic for a while now, and for good reason! Their rooftop pool is to die for and the staff are super accommodating. Plus it’s right in central Beirut!
Mid Range (US$30 – US$100)
- Luna’s Village – Luna’s is run by the most awesome staff and they deserve every good review they get!! They have individual units for a great price, and the attached vegan restaurant also has amazing cocktails and plenty of opportunities to make friends.
- Auntie Lulu – This place in Hamra is pretty basic, but there’s an epic rooftop pool that’s empty a lot of the time! The units have a teeny kitchen area and it’s nice and private. I stayed there a couple of times and it never disappoints!
Budget (up to US$30)
- The Grand Meshmosh Hotel – Meshmosh means apricot in Lebanese, and this place is as cute as! They have a mixture of dorms and private rooms, plus home cooked food and a cozy vibe in Gemmayzeh.
- Hostel Beirut – I stayed in Hostel Beirut countless times, and I can’t recommend it enough. It’s THE best place to meet people, and it’s in a quiet area right round the corner from Mar Mikhael, the highlight of Beirut for bar-hopping expats.
- Hamra Urban Gardens – Similar to Hostel Beirut, HUG in Hamra is a fantastic place to meet people. There’s a rooftop pool and bar to chill with your new friends and it’s close to everything you’ll ever need. Plus, they have private rooms if that’s your jam!
3. Getting around Beirut
Once you know Beirut well, it’s easy to get around.
However, if you’ve never been before, Beirut is a maze! Google Maps isn’t necessarily always reliable, taxis are hilarious, and while Uber is pretty decent it shouldn’t always be your first point of call.
Let’s get into it!
Walking
Even if your sandals were made for walking, Beirut definitely wasn’t. Sidewalks are often crowded with poorly-parked cars, uneven pavements are rife, and sometimes wanting to get away from an overflowing bin means walking on the road.
But don’t fret! Walking on the road is totally fine, just walk on the side and know that drivers in Beirut are used to seeing pedestrians in the street. Just be mindful (obviously) and don’t wear headphones while you’re walking.
Walking around Beirut is a great way to get to know the city, so I highly recommend it to be honest. It’s easy to get lost so just keep your wits about you, but you can always ask the locals for directions – they’ll be glad to help you out.
Walking also means you’ll see parts of the city you’d have otherwise missed. Leafy street corners, political artwork and graffiti, a café you’d never know existed – Beirut is a melting pot of hidden gems, so be on the lookout!
NOTE: When attempting to cross the road in Beirut, look left, right, up, and down, then left and right again. Seriously. The crossings aren’t always functional as the traffic lights don’t work lots of the time. Just make a run for it when there’s a break in the traffic and hold your hand out to slow people down. It’s more fun than it sounds, I promise!
Public Transport
Inside the city, public transport means either vans or services. Here’s a breakdown:
- Services – these are shared taxis. You can recognize them easily from their red number plates, and these cars are often in obvious need of an MOT! Just flag them down when you see them in the street and tell them where you’re going. The price will 100% depend on your negotiation skills, but expect to pay around 40,000 – 80,000 LL for a ride inside the city.
- Buses – I personally wouldn’t opt for inner city buses, as they’re tiny and tend to be suuuper crammed full of people! However, for the experience, I recommend doing it at least once. The price honestly varies, but I’d expect to pay around 10,000 LL.
- Uber – Uber is super reliable in Beirut. Just always pay in cash!
NOTE: Don’t pay with dollars on public transport. Lira is expected and even if you pay in dollars they’ll give you change in LL.
Renting a car
Remember what I said about chaos? Get ready for it! Renting a car in Beirut is a fantastic idea IF you’re a confident driver. If you’ve driven in chaotic places before then go ahead, you’ll love it!
However, if you’re not that confident or you’ve only driven in your home country, I’d stay away from renting a car until you’re familiar with Lebanon and its isms.
Driving here is confusing, mad, frustrating, (fun) and all “rules” are there to be broken, right?
Technically, there are speed limits of about 100 km on the highway. But to be honest, does anyone really pay attention to this? No. Only when there’s so much traffic that 100 km is physically impossible 😂
If you want to rent a car, just use rentalcars until you know people who can give you referrals. It’s super cheap, just make sure you get the insurance on it!
For a fun (but useful and realistic) guide on driving in Lebanon, check out this post from Escape Artistes, which sums it up pretty well!
NOTE: If a man in an army uniform is standing in the middle of the road, do what he tells you. Even if the light is red, if he’s waving you forward, go for it. Enjoy the ride!
4. Traveling outside Beirut (public transport)
Now for the best part! Getting out of Beirut after a couple of weeks in the city feels like taking a breath of fresh air after hanging out in an airport smoking room.
I LOVE Beirut, it’s my favorite city in the world. But it’s a mad place, and you need to follow the locals and get out every once in a while. Many people leave on Friday and come back Sunday evening – do the same! It’ll refresh your mind and you’ll be ready to take on a new adventure for the next week.
Beirut to the north
I recommend starting off with the coastline. You can easily grab any of the mini buses that run all the way up the country, right from the south to the north.
There are no designated bus stops in Lebanon, the land where the wild roam free and rules run amok!
If you want to get up to the northern coastline, just go to Daoura (maps) at the end of Bourj Hammoud and grab the first bus you see. There’ll be a few and they’re pretty obvious, but just ask around if you get confused.
Prices can vary depending on your destination, but I’d wager you’ll pay between 15,000 LL and 40,000 LL to get anywhere between Beirut and Tripoli.
The best thing to do is grab a bus that isn’t full yet. Just be mindful about where you sit (girlies I’m looking at you)! Sit close to the driver towards the front of the bus. The back is also fine if the bus is packed, but if you’re in full view of everyone and close to the driver you’re more likely to get help quickly if you need it.
HACK: If you’re heading straight to Tripoli (which I highly recommend as Tripoli is a goldmine of culture) then use Connexion (timetable and prices here). You should book at least a couple of days in advance. These buses are bigger, sometimes air conditioned, and more reliable in terms of safety to get to Tripoli. They leave from opposite the Mohamed Al Amin Mosque in Downtown Beirut.
Beirut to Baalbek
Going wine tasting or visiting the ancient ruins at Baalbek? You can easily get a bus from Beirut to Beqaa if you head over to the Cola intersection (map) and ask the bus drivers for Baalbek.
You’ll likely be told you need to get 2 buses, the first of which will take you to Chtoura and you can get a second bus from there.
Beirut to Saida & Tyre
Going down south? These buses also go from Cola, so just grab one and go! They tend to be smaller than the ones that go up north, so just squeeze in with the locals and bring lots of water with you if you’re going in the summer. Those vans get sticky as hell – worth the ride for sure, and an adventure, but stay hydrated people!
If you’re planning to travel more “off-piste” into the wild and rural areas of Lebanon, I recommend making friends in Beirut first so you can all go together! You can hire private taxis that way and it’s much cheaper as a group.
Alternatively, grab a bus from Beirut to Jbeil and take an Uber or local taxi from there into the mountains – from whence you will be on your own! You can always contact a taxi driver by asking a friendly local for a number.
Public transport tips & etiquette
Here are a few essential tips to help you blend in with the crowd and travel seamlessly around this crazy place:
- Sit near the driver wherever possible, it makes it much easier to grab someone’s attention if you need help.
- When you’re coming close to your destination, lean forward and tell the driver to open the door. There are no bus stops, so just get out when you want!
- Payment is always made when you’re getting off, don’t give them money before that.
- For my girls out there, don’t wear skimpy clothing on PT, even if you’re going to the beach. You’ll attract unwanted attention – nothing will happen, people will just look at you – so just try to blend in and cover up a little.
- Always ask how much it will cost from the beginning. You don’t want to negotiate in the middle of the highway!
- Another one for my girls: if a guy tries to make conversation with you, be polite, but don’t give him any personal information, including where you’re going. PT is not the best place to meet people, so try to keep to yourself. If someone is harassing you, move further towards the driver and ask him for help.
- Don’t flash your cash.
- Don’t get on a bus past 7 PM. If you need to stay somewhere overnight to avoid that (or splurge on an Uber), do that instead.
I personally LOVE the buses in Lebanon. They’re unpredictable, fun, and can be super reliable. I highly recommend experiencing it at least once for the true Lebanon experience!
5. Tips for female solo travelers in Lebanon
As a solo female traveler myself, I think traveling alone has SO many perks. It can change your whole outlook on life, make you a better person, and present you with challenges that force you to grow up.
Traveling solo around Lebanon is totally safe, even for women. Obviously, there are certain safety precautions you’ll need to take, but Lebanon is really no different to anywhere else in that sense.
There is one thing I do want to drive home before I give you a few essential tips on solo traveling in Beirut and Lebanon in general: Lebanon is very safe. You won’t find yourself in a tough situation if you take the necessary precautions, and solo travel there can open you up to friendships you’d otherwise never have the pleasure of experiencing.
So, here are some awesome tips for solo [female] travelers to help you have the best time of your life!
- Always dress with a bit of common sense. Going to a mosque? Traveling into the mountains? Always bear in mind where you’re going before you slap on that crop top.
- Don’t get smashed in Beirut by yourself. This kind of goes without saying for pretty much anywhere you travel. The nightlife is so fun, but always remain aware!
- If you hit a demonstration anywhere, just bow out. It’s not your space, and you have no idea how it’s going to end. If you see groups of people gathering, just go somewhere else. It’s probably fine, but it’s better to be safe!
- Don’t go home with random guys. I get it – you’re single and want to have fun! But Lebanese guys won’t necessarily respect you the way they do their own women. They’re awesome (I married one!) but they might just be looking for sex… or a passport!
- Try to grab as many friends as possible! See a group of girls in a bar? Another solo traveler like yourself? Just go introduce yourself! People are SO nice and the sooner you can get a band of people around you, the better your experience will be. Trust me!
- Speaking of which, go to beach parties! There are tons in Batroun every weekend, and it’s a great way to take the edge off and meet new people.
- Don’t give money to kids begging in the street. I know, it’s sad. But they’re often part of mafia-style gangs and they don’t get to keep that money. Instead, buy them a manoucheh!
- Street harassment isn’t particularly common, but don’t engage with them if it happens. More often, you’ll experience people staring at you – and not just guys, but women, too! They’re just curious, and that’s usually the extent of it. Try not to let it get to you, you’re perfectly safe.
- Many men will tell you you’re beautiful! Don’t engage with this too much, they say this to all foreign women to try to get their attention. It’s not all as romantic as it seems 🤪
- Join Couchsurfing! Even if you’re not looking for a place to crash, they do weekly meetups either in Aaliyah’s Books in Gemmayzeh or a bar in Badaro. They have a Whatsapp group you can join, just check out their Facebook page.
- Join the Expats in Beirut chat to meet people. It’s a really active group and there are always solo travelers like yourself up for meeting! Check out the group here.
- If you’re heading to Tripoli by yourself, don’t take a service there. They’re way less reliable. You can easily walk around Tripoli as it’s really small, and there’s Uber up there if you need it. Try to go with friends, it makes Tripoli more fun!
- Learn some Lebanese Arabic! I’m not talking about MSA, the formal Arabic. I’m talking about the local dialect. People will LOVE that you’re trying and it’ll make it easier to make local friends. People do speak English (and often French) so you’ll be fine if you don’t, but it does make life a lot easier.
And finally: try to let the little things go! Electricity can be a nightmare, traffic is insane, and there’s trash everywhere. But look past all that, and Lebanon can be a haven if you just embrace the chaos.
6. Dating culture in Lebanon
I know I’ve touched on this a little bit, but for all my single solo travelers out there, I just wanted to tell you a bit about what to expect before you download Tinder.
Lebanese guys are freaking awesome. They’re beautiful, sweet, romantic, beards for days, etc etc etc. However… exercise some caution!
In general, it can be difficult for Lebanese guys to date Lebanese women, especially if the girl’s parents don’t allow them to date. This is pretty standard, and it often means that free and open relationships like we might have in the west don’t necessarily exist in the same way in Lebanon.
So, when a lovely-looking foreigner with parents far, far away ventures into Beirut hoping to meet a dashing young bearded man, they might find a ton of men falling at their feet.
But be aware that the men might see you as “easy” because you’re not Lebanese. They also might be after a foreign passport (it’s difficult for Lebanese people to get out of the country if they don’t have a lot of money).
This might sound harsh, but it’s the reality. I was lucky enough to find (and marry) the most amazing Lebanese man, and he’s nothing like these stereotypes. But I have met plenty of guys who are exactly like this. And some of them really do go as far as to marry foreigners for a passport.
So go out, date, and enjoy yourself! Just try to be a good judge of character and don’t jump into bed with anyone too quick. You’ll hear many people tell you your eyes are just so beautiful, you’re more lovely than the moon, you’re sweet like baklava… but don’t take these to heart too much unless you really trust them. They say this to everyone!
Some good news? There are plenty of amazing Lebanese guys. And once you have one, you’ll never look back! They’re sweet, loyal, and will always look after you. Just choose the right one!
7. Practical information about Lebanon
Now that you know all the basics (and so much more), let’s dive into some practical info that will help you have a smooth trip traveling solo around Lebanon.
- Don’t put toilet paper down the toilet! Or anything else for that matter. Seriously, just don’t. Those delicate little pipes were not made for it! Just put paper into the bin next to the toilet.
- If the electricity goes off in a restaurant, bar, or other public place, don’t panic. This is totally normal. It will come back in a jiffy. Do as the locals do – ignore it!
- If you rent an apartment, make sure you have all the info you need to get the electricity back if it turns off. Ask the landlord how many amps you have, and know how many amps the fridge uses, and whether you can turn on the AC at the same time as the washing machine etc.
- Get a prepaid sim card from any phone shop in Beirut. You can pay around US$20 from either Touch or Alfa for a pretty decent deal.
- The best restaurants look shabby from the outside. But don’t be fooled! Some of the best food you’ll ever eat will be from places like this.
- If you have an old Israeli stamp in your passport, you may not get into the country. I know, I know – but it’s old beef between the 2 countries. Get a new passport before you go!
- Drinking the tap water (even in the met city) will end badly. Unless you like the idea of drinking dirty water, buy bottled water. If you’re renting an apartment for a while, ask your neighbors for their water delivery guy’s number, they’ll deliver it weekly for you!
- If you’re meeting up with people, expect them to be late. Keeping time is for the weak in Lebanon, so expect pretty much everyone to be late. All the time. Embrace it!
- To get a SIM card, you’ll need to take your passport with you. This is just a formality.
| 🎩 Top Tip | Cash is king! |
| 🏩 Best area to stay | Geitawi, Beirut |
| 🚌 Top day trip | Baalbek |
| 🛎️ Best hotel for solo travelers | Hostel Beirut |
| 🕌 Most underrated destination | Tripoli |
FAQs about solo travel in Lebanon
🧭 Is Lebanon safe for solo travelers?
Yes! I actually recommend Lebanon specifically for solo travelers. It’s too easy to make friends there, and you’ll soak up the culture better by yourself. Trust me!
🎨 Is Lebanon cheap or expensive?
It depends! For most travelers, Lebanon is considered pretty cheap. However, certain things are more expensive, like hotels (not including hostels, these are super cheap), fancy restaurants, and private taxis.
🏄♀️ Can you go backpacking in Lebanon?
Yes! You can certainly go backpacking in Lebanon. I recommend using Beirut as your base and spending 1-2 days in Tyre, Saida, Jounieh/Jbeil, Batroun, Tripoli, and Baalbek. There are many more areas you’ll discover along your way!
🌞 What’s the best way to experience the nightlife solo in Lebanon?
I recommend exploring the nightlife solo in Hamra and Mar Mikhael in Beirut. Start off here (Mar Mikhael particularly has a whole street full of bars) and just chat to people. You’ll make friends in no time, and then just follow the vibe! Who knows where you might end up 🤪
❄️ Is Lebanon safe for female solo travelers?
Lebanon is super safe for my gals! Just remember to be aware of your surroundings like in any other country. Dress respectfully, make friends, and have fun!
🛑 Is there a travel ban to Lebanon?
Some western governments have said that Lebanon isn’t safe for travel. However, they are just playing it safe – I can vouch for Lebanon’s safety! I lived in London for 6 years and Paris for 2 years, and I’ve felt more in danger in both those places than Lebanon. Just go!
Conclusion
I hope this guide for solo travel in Lebanon was helpful! If you need any other tips and tricks, just hit me up in the comments below.
Don’t miss my other pieces on Lebanon – you’ll be the king of travel in Lebanon before you know it!
If you were on the fence about going, I hope I’ve managed to change your mind. Lebanon is a place that shouldn’t be missed.
You’ll fall madly in love with it and I promise you, you’ll never want to leave. I never do!
Until the next time!
Lizzie
